Sunday, 17 April 2011


Under a couple of hours from Nairobi, on the shore of Lake Naivasha, can be found this charming little place, with campsites and little cottages. The view is directly onto the lake, with mountains all around. It is very pretty, and very chill.

We arrived in time for a picnic lunch - what we could steal back from the bees - under a set of trees in which monkeys were playing. In the evening we went on a boat ride, which was a very pretty way to see the lake, and also, for those with poor social skills, a good chance to see and argue about bird species. There was also a sizeable pod of hippos.

We had dinner in Carnelly’s charming little restaurant, which is quaint and Kenyan without inducing nausea, quite a feat. There may have been some boozing, and some pingpong. Before bed, a double miracle: showers open to the sky that were both hot and clean.

We had a lovely jasmine scented sleep, as there was a hedge outside our door, and woke up to breakfast at the still quaint and Kenyan restaurant.

I saw a woman I presume to be the owner, who was tall and blond, wearing shorts, a T-shirt and slick of red on her lips. Now, I regard this as hardly generous. It is not kind to others to look this good at 8am on campsite. It almost undid all the good of my holiday, really, but somehow I soldiered on, forcing down my delicious banana pancakes like a champ, and seeking consolation in the view.

Their website is here. Camping 600KSh/person, Dorms 800 KSh/person, cottages vary.

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